But I can't help but notice that this makes a very convenient excuse to dismiss any observation you happen to be uncomfortable with, just because it comes packaged with an evolutionary explanation.

Hardly. If I take an offered explanation for an observation with a grain of salt, that doesn't mean I can dismiss the observation itself. At most I can dismiss the explanation.

Far better to admit that an evolutionary perspective can be a handy tool for identifying fruitful research topics

Yes, that's what I was saying.

and separating plausible vs. implausible hypothesis

Evolutionary psychology is likely to also help with this, yes, though we need to be careful with it and remember what we don't know.