I take it you disagree with step one, that qualia exists?

I think that anyone talking seriously about "qualia" is confused, in the same way that anyone talking seriously about "free will" is.

That is, they're words people use to describe experiences as if they were objects or capabilities. Free will isn't something you have, it's something you feel. Same for "qualia".

I do think essentially the same argument goes through for free will

Dissolving free will is considered an entry-level philosophical exercise for Lesswrong. If you haven't covered that much of the sequences homework, it's unlikely that you'll find this discussion especially enlightening.

(More to the point, you're doing the rough equivalent of bugging people on a newsgroup about a question that is answered in the FAQ or an RTFM.)

Do you think you are a philosophical zombie?

This is probably a good answer to that question.

I don't understand why you think this is a claim about my feelings.

Because (as with free will) the only evidence anyone has (or can have) for the concept of qualia is their own intuitive feeling that they have some.