But I don't think conscious experience (qualia if you like) have been explained. I think we have some pretty good explanations of how people act, but I don't see how it pierces through to consciousness as experienced, and linked questions such as 'what is it like to be a bat?' or 'how do I know my green isn't your red'

It would help if you could sum up the merely mechnical things that are 'just what consciousness is' in Dennett's (or your!) sense. I've never been clear on what confident materialists are saying on this: I'm sometimes left with the impression that they're denying that we have subjective experience, sometimes that they're saying it's somehow an inherent quality of other things, sometimes that it's an incidental byproduct. All of these seem to be problematic to me.